Sump Pumps,
Backup Sump Pump Systems and Potential Problems
Written by Bryan Gloeckner
Sump Systems LLC Copyright 2004.
Most new homes are designed with the basement intended as
a living space, yet these homes are being built where drainage can be an issue.
Generally these new homes are built with a sump pit and have an AC powered sump
pump installed. It is usually left up to
the homeowner to install a backup system, if there is concern about the main
pump or if you can’t afford to have the main pump fail. If your sump pump has
run even once, you should give serious consideration to a backup sump pump
system.
You may ask yourself; do I really need a backup sump
pump? The answer to this is really quite simple. If you store valuables in your basement area
or have a finished basement and your sump pump has ever run, then yes, you
should have a backup system installed.
It has been my experience, that people who have backup
sump pumps installed have had their basement flooded due to power failure or sump
pump failure. Or they know someone who
has had water damage to their basement.
What can go wrong with my sump pump system and how do I
protect myself?
What can go wrong with your main sump pump system?
-
The main sump pump can fail.
-
The power to the main sump pump can fail, for example;
o
AC power can fail and your AC sump will not run.
o
The pipe to the outside can become blocked causing pump failure
or the circuit breaker to be tripped.
o
The intake to the sump pump can become partially clogged letting
the water come
in faster than it is pumped, causing the pump to fail completely or tripping
the circuit breaker.
o
The float can get stuck on and the pump may burn out, shut down
or eventually cause the circuit breaker to trip.
o
Lightening can strike, damaging the AC
powered pump or wiring.
-
The water level can come in at a higher rate that it can be
pumped out, due to excessive rain.
-
The float switch can fail and the pump will not activate.
So if you decide to install a backup sump pump or have
one installed, there are some things you should know:
-
Get the best backup system you can afford, there are many
systems out there
but only a few actually have the
pumping capacity that comes close to an 1/3 AC pump. Look for capacity in the 3000 Gallon per hour
range or if they give you information about head height look for something that
can pump 2000 gallons per hour at a 10’ head.(see
useful terms below to learn about head height)
-
Tying in a backup sump pump to your
existing pipe out of the house is fairly common practice although a separate pipe running out of the house gives
you the most redundancy and is
invaluable should the main pipe become blocked. Several systems out on the market have a
special “T” that allows you to tie the backup into the existing pipe; again
keep in mind this won’t do any good if the main pipe gets blocked..
-
If you do tee your new backup pump into the existing pipe out of
the house you will need to make sure a check valve is put on the backup pump
and the main pump. This will prevent water from either pump being re-circulated
back into the sump pit
-
Most cities do not allow sump water to be pumped into the sewer
system. Sump pit water, for the most
part, is clean and does not need to be treated.
In addition it can overwhelm city sewer systems, causing backup of raw
sewage into homes.
-
A DC or AC/DC backup pump needs to be used in conjunction with a
large deep cycle Marine/RV battery. The
-
The battery is not included with most backup systems.
What are some of the things
that can go wrong with your backup system?
- The backup
system was activated and:
o
The system ran great for a while…then the battery ran down. There may have been a notification alarm
built in to the backup controller but you did not hear it because:
§
you don’t live in your basement or you are not down there all the
time.
§
the system was not loud enough to wake you in your sleep.
§
you weren’t home at the time of the problem.
o
The pump failed for one reason or another.
o
The battery was not fully charged, it was old, or a car battery
was used and failed.
o
The float system for the backup failed.
o
The pump itself failed or the backup pipe became clogged.
Backup Sump Pump Pricing:
There are
several backup sump pump systems on the market today and as with anything, you
can spend thousands if you want. But in general, you will be spending $300-500
for the average system including the battery, but not installation. Just like
anything else you get what you pay for.
You
will find some of the least expensive systems at your home centers and even
popular department stores. They cost anywhere from $150-$225 (not including
battery) but have limited ability to pump water. Some even recommend using car batteries,
which will only cause problems, because car batteries degrade very quickly if
they are deep cycled (run down) even a few times. Remember this system has to be able to keep
up with the water coming into your sump pit, in essence replacing your existing
pump because it’s down due to AC power loss or other reasons.
Other
considerations:
-
It is important to know how much water your backup system can
pump and for how long. Some systems on the market today are misleading as to
how much water they can pump because they do not consider how high the sump
pump must pump the water (head). This is a critical consideration in sizing
both your main and backup system. The higher
you have to pump the water to get it out of your house, the less (GPH) gallons per
hour the sump pump will pump.
-
A backup sump is not to be used as your main pump, even though there
are more expensive systems which have AC/DC capability. You need to find out
why the main pump failed and get the problem corrected as soon as possible.
-
The battery you should buy should be a large (105-150AH (Amp
Hour)) Deep
Cycle Marine style battery depending on what your system requirements are. This
will cost more, but if you use a car battery, you will be replacing that
battery in as little as 6 months(I know I have done
this). But even worse…it could fail at a
critical time. Deep cycle batteries are made to be run down (deep cycled). If you do this to a car battery, it damages
the battery by causing premature sulfating of the electrodes. Do it more than a
few times and your battery will be in very bad shape, possibly when you need it
most.
-
Once you have a backup system it is important to inspect it at
least once per month and even more often during heavy rainfall or melting snow.
Recommended inspection and maintenance
procedure for your main
sump pump.
1) When
you are working around water and electricity, they can be a deadly combination. Use a wooden stick or another non conductor
to activate float switches. Or unplug your unit from the electricity, if you
need to be in contact with the water in the sump pit.
2)
At least once per
week, during the wet season, check the operation of your main sump pump by
watching at least one or several normal cycles of pumping.
o
Check for leaks
around check valves and anywhere rubber fittings are used to mate the PCV
fittings together.
o
Pay careful
attention to the float switch operation.
If a tethered float switch, make sure it does not get hung up on tiling
or other obstructions, such as the sump pit walls or sump pump wires.
3)
Once per year,
remove the main sump pump and check strainer for obstructions
such as gravel
or other debris that can impede flow into the pump.
Recommended inspection and maintenance procedure for backup sump
pump.
1) Verify you can activate the
float switch turn on the pump (once per week in rainy season).
2) Check the level of your low
maintenance Marine/Deep Cycle battery (add distilled water if low). Once every
3 months.*
3) Check with a hydrometer the
quality of your battery or take it to an auto shop at least once per year after
the first season or two to have them load test your battery.
4) Check battery cables for
corrosion and inspect all wires for problems at least once every 3 months.
5) At least once per season, unplug
AC Sump Pump and run backup sump pump on battery alone (don’t forget to plug
your AC pump back in)!
Replace battery every 3-5 years. If you are unsure about the
battery, remove it and have a load test done on it at your local battery store.
*It is important
that battery water levels and maintenance be maintained over the life of your
battery. This helps prevent sulfating and premature battery degradation.
Dialer
If you are interested in something above and beyond your
backup sump pump for protection, you can install an optional sump pump alarm
connected to an Auto Dialer.
With the Sump
Alarm Notification System™ from
Sump Systems LLC, you will get notified anytime, anywhere, if my sump system
fails and/or the water reaches a critical level in the sump pit!!! In my case, I can’t stand the thought of
walking into that kind a mess in the basement so I want to know anytime my
backup pump has been activated.
Although other companies are starting to offer this
system, Sump Systems LLC was the first to market! We use a wireless dialer, so you don’t have
to add an additional phone line near the sump pump. Just use an existing line, that is not being
used, anywhere in the home to attach the base unit.
Useful Terms:
Sump Pit/Basin: Collection area for ground water, generally 20-40
gallons.
Sump Pump: Pump that removes water from the sump pit and discards it
outside and away from the home.
-
The pedestal pump has the motor on top of the pedestal
and the pump at the base, which sits on the bottom of the sump. The motor is
not meant to get wet. The pump is turned on and off by a ball float. One
advantage of this type of pump is that the on/off switch is visible so the
action of the ball float can be easily seen.
-
Submersible pumps are designed to be submerged
in water and sit on the bottom of the sump. The on/off switch is attached to
the pump and can be either be a tethered mercury switch, vertical ball
float, or pressure switch and electronic sensor switches. There are advantages
to each and opinions vary.
Backup Sump Pump: Pump designed to
take over in the event the main pump fails or cannot handle the inflow of water….typically
a submersible type pump.
Tile: Corrugated pipe
(usually perforated) used around footings and foundation to allow ground water
to flow into the sump pit.
Head Height: How high the
sump pump must pump the water before it goes outside, 10 feet is typical. The
higher the pump has to pump, the less water it is able to pump.
PVC: (Poly Vinyl Chloride) pipe
used for removing the water from the sump pit, generally this pipe is 1-1/4 or
1-1/2 inches in diameter.
Check Valve A valve that is put inline with your PVC pipe that allows water to flow
only one way. This prevents water from your backup pump or main pump from
coming back into the sump pit.
Alarm Systems: Mostly seen on
backup systems. They are intended to let
you know when the backup pump has been activated and consist of LEDs and a small Son-alert to let the home owner know there
is an issue. Some companies now offer dialers as well to give the home owner a
call if water level exceeds a predetermined level.